Reddit user passim took a stab at printing the fictional weapon using an Ultimaker 2 printer and came out with a pretty sweet new sword. Passim reports it took 22 hours of production on the printer's "normal" print-quality setting to make the handle. Sites like makexyz and 3D Hubs offer directories for finding a 3D printer near you. The Ultimaker lightsaber isn't the only 3D model available. If you're feeling a little more ambitious and want to print out a more complex version, then check out reddit user theandymancan's Wookiee Scalper on Thingiverse.
I just wouldn't recommend actually trying it on a Wookiee. Those guys will tear your arms off. Be respectful, keep it civil and stay on topic.
We delete comments that violate our policy , which we encourage you to read. Discussion threads can be closed at any time at our discretion. Amanda Kooser. Test fit the hilt parts. Keep them in a bin. What ever you can think of to dress up your hilt body. How bright do you want it? Do you want sound? How about some extra stuff like fake electronics, a crystal, feedback motor, or accent LEDs?
This is when it could get expensive. Rebels mounted on one Star as close as possible. All are green. This was purchased from Xwingband who has made an investment to be able to produce these custom mounted Rebel LEDs. Powered by one buck puck and three Li-Ion batteries. Each Rebel I think puts out lumen at mAmp.
I have three so i think I am over Lumen. More lumen equals brighter blade. A fourth Li-Ion battery is used to power the sound board and accent lights. The sound is from a board. There is a crystal chamber, and a feedback motor. Here is what the functioning electronics look like outside the hilt: Try to get as much technical specs on the LED you want to use.
Important things to know about the LEDS are: 1. Minimum, normal, maximum Forward voltage. Minimum, normal, and max Amperage 3. Light output in lumens at min, normal and max amperage 4.
Size and mounting methods. Note that white, blue, and green take a higher forward voltage than red, yellow and amber. Also note that LEDs respond more to current than to voltage. Feeding your LED with current milliamps as close to what the datasheet states will provide the most optimal performance. Besides the challenge of how to power these beast up was having a solution for the optics.
Xwingband provided the solution by mounting the LED emitters as close as possible to each other and providing a collimator with a large enough opening underneath to ALMOST encompass all 3 Rebels.
Picture 2 and 3 shows how the lense collimator would normally fit on top of a star with 1 LED emitter. Not shown is the Optics Holder which keeps the lense centered. Basic - No Sound. There are others but I leave it to you to do the research. For the basic lightsaber with NO sound we will need the high power LED s , Optics, batteries, a resistor or a buck puck, battery holder and a switch. That's it. And this method leaves lots of space inside the hilt.
Space that can be used for a larger battery capacity or more voltage. Plus there is heat management to take care of, i. Not having sound and a speaker means more room for batteries and a larger heatsink. You also have to find the right kind of Switch.
You must consider the size, mounting hole requirements, voltage and amp rating and look of the switch. About Battery Choices: A standard 9 volt battery is not going to cut it. You need something with decent capacity measured in mAh - milliamp hours and voltage.
The best choice would be rechargeables. The mAh of most rechargeable AA battery is above Using a battery pack means you can install a recharge port on your lightsaber and just plug your saber to a charger to be recharged. This makes wiring much simpler and saves on space. Overdischarge a Li-Ion battery and it will not ever charge again. There are special chargers and protections circuits used to prevent both cases. Often times the circuit is built into the battery.
Li-Ion battery sizes are designated by their diameter and lenght in millimeters. So a size means the battery is 16mm in diameter and 34mm long remove one trailing zero - thanks for catching that Dr.
A is equal in size to a AA battery 14mm x 50mm. Get this wrong and you either get weak light or a fried LED. Buckpucks come in mA, mA, and mA. The is hardly ever used in our hobby. Again, look at the typical mA of your chosen LED and match it as close to one of the buckpucks above.
The higher level lightsabers build on the principals on this page of LED, current limitter, switch, and battery. A step up to just light with no sound is having a Controller Board provide the power to the high power LED. What does all of the above mean? Well, it adds some flexibility in our design. We can use different high power LEDs, different types of switches, different voltages. There are also options to connect this to a sound board. The purple blade lightsaber is using the hasbro toy sound board in this video: How did I get purple?
Well, I put 4. Both LEDs use a common Negative wire. Green was not used. See Picture 2 on how to wire a Hasbro toy circuit board. For higher sound quality and better light control, people have stripped the electronics out of Force FX Lightsaber previously produced by Master Replicas MR.
This was sold exclusively at Radio Shack. Why this one? Well with a flick of a switch you can go from lightsaber sounds based on Jedi to Sith yes, there is a difference. Heck, the set gives you the ability to switch the blade color from Red to Green to Blue.
They only place I know to get them now is Ebay. Any more and you fry it. The board requires a latching switch similar to the one used for the Basic lightsaber. Basically if your LED choice requires a forward voltage of more than 6 volts, this board can not do it alone example would be the Luxeon V , or multiple LEDs like I did. This is the board that I used. I know I just said that this board can not handle over 6 volts. And my 3 Rebels in series would need 9. In fact, the voltage put out by my three Li-Ion batteries is at How did that work?
Well with some applied electronics you can regulate the power going into the board and have the board just provide sound. Then have the rest of the electricity go into a buckpuck. That way you can have the MR board getting less than 6 volts and the LED getting what ever it requires 7. Press the button and two different voltages are sent to two circuits isolated from each other. This is the route I went with.
Hardcore lightsaber makers are busy making other sound board solutions in the mid-to-high price range. Ultra Sound Board 2. If the trend continues, soon there will be several to choose from. Wiring of this board is very customizable and feature rich. The maker of the board provides instructions on how to wire it all up. As mentioned earlier the Ultrasaber website also sells completed blades or complete hilts if you don't want to build your own. Follow the link to the "Electronic Modules".
Just to warn you, these boards are pricey and they are very limited in quatity. Erv sells them in batches of about 80 boards and they sell out in about 5 minutes. He is currently on version 4. To give you an idea what this board can do here is a link to the Crystal Fucus 3. In addition it can provide power to multiple low power accent LED and make them blink in different ways.
Basically, you can create or download your own unique lightsaber sound. ANY music. Just copy it to the SD card. The sound fonts are stored on an SD card. Thats right, the board has an SD card slot.
I will not go into how to wire the Crystal Focus. The instruction manual Erv Plecter provides does a great job with that already. Download the PDF above if you really want to know how it all works. Well, by now you should have a really fancy metal tube between 10" to 15" long. Perhaps 20" to 22" if you decided you wanted a Darth Maul type of lightsaber. The most common length tends to hover around And last but not least a pile of electronics parts - LED, circuit board, puck, battery, switch, speaker, low power LED.
Well, lay them all out on your work table like the picture above and measure out your wires. Remember that space is a premium inside these hilts and a little extra wire here and there tends to eat up all that space. When it does not make sense to have parts permanently soldered together, use corresponding male and female connectors. Use as small a connector as you can find. Does it light up? Is there sound coming out the speaker? Disconnect the wires that are on connectors.
Now cram all that stuff inside the hilt. Each lightsaber is different. The layout of wires, switches, and electronics is as unique as finger prints. So I can not really tell you how to do it. Just cram it all in there one way or another. Sometimes a compromise is needed, or a part needs to be abandoned. Or maybe your lucky and there is tons of room. Be mindful that you are not twisting up your wires and breaking solder points as you screw in the parts. Tightens the screws, bolts, nuts.
Put in the blade. Tighten the blade retention screw. Hold your breath and move your finger to the ON switch I took it a apart to make sure the rest of the electronics was OK. It is. I should have taken pictures.
Total time to take apart 5 minutes. On putting it back together, it took me an hour! Keep in mind this is the lightsaber I assembled. I had hemostats holding wires in place while I used a needle nose pliers to manuever the connectors and plug parts together. I had so many wires going every which way that I forgot what goes to what! Thank goodness I thought ahead and color coded everything all negative wires are black, clash sensor is orange wires, speaker wire is brown, switch wires are yellow, etc.
While working I looked at my wife and asked her "Why do you let me do nutty things like this?! It is tricky and it is confusing and it can get frustrating. Just step back, take a deep breath and try again when you have cooled off. Tip 2 years ago. Reword "how to make" to "how to assemble". I see no scratch building here Reply 7 months ago. You really want to build a lightsaber from scratch? Do you just have a mountain of money and an eternity of time lying around? Easy Peasy.
Don't try to build a lightsaber using a car door and a blow torch. While I feel the reply to Kalmsean is a bit of necroposting the original comment was 2 years ago and I decided to ignore it , I feel both commenter may have over-generalized a little. Kennyisnothere, is coming to my defense, i feel.
Although, i would very much like to see someone build a lightsaber from a car door. Kalmsean missed the part about the FACT that the example lightsaber is partly made out of a chromed brass segment of pipe meant to be used under Bathroom Sinks.
And really, there is no reason why I could not have made the whole thing out of that sink pipe. It would have simply added a couple hours to the build time and probably cost less. Now, Kennyisnothere's comment of "mountain of cash" is not correct either. And hardware store lightsabers can be made in an afternoon. Lightsaber building is a spectrum just like life. There are no absolutes.
Compromises have to be made in accordance to each persons technical ability and financial ability. I build lightsaber's out of hardware store parts and I also bought a SaberTrio Reaver recently. I see nothing wrong with either method, or any combination of the two extremes. If you give a damn about quality or dignity, do NOT buy anything from Ultrasabers. Their soundboards are very outdated and ridiculously overpriced, and the owner is infamous for paying and treating his employees like dirt.
Reply 8 months ago. Thank you for your input. They have indeed declined in quality, customer service and community relationship. When I first made this instructable many, many years ago they were ok. I was actually going to be in Houston on business a couple of years ago and contacted them saying I wanted to buy a lightsaber and pick it up at their place of business their shipping cost is unreasonable, imho.
I got a email reply saying they don't want any customers showing up on their property. The response was borderline rude. I could say the same about another company whose name i will not say cough, SF. At least SF wants you to go to their physical store. The Customer Saber Shop is still my first go-to place to buy lightsaber parts. They have yet to let me down. Question 9 months ago. Where did you buy the quick connects?
I am new to this so any resources of where I can find more information would be great! Answer 9 months ago. Tip 11 months ago.
Reply 11 months ago. I have a SaberForge. See picture.
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